Digital Technology Week 5: Photomerge Photoshop

Week 5 Digital Technology 

Photomerge Photoshop

In Class

I took both these Panorama's by taking a series of images making sure there was always a part of the last image in the next image. I then went to bridge and selected the images I wanted, then went to the Tools Bar, selected Photoshop and then Photomerge. Once in the Photomerge section I made sure the "Blend Images Together" box was ticked and pressed okay for the images to be merged. You can also press Browse to look through images if you haven't already selected before pressing okay. Once done I saved the Panorama as a JPEG. These are my Class Work outcomes :)

Self Directed Task

This is my Self Directed Panorama :) I am very happy with this one. I took a series of images standing on a hill at one end of our farm and put them all together to gt a full image of our farm. I feel it looks really amazing, made me feel like I didn't want to move after I merged all the images together lol. I actually really love this image :) I also straightened the image and cropped it to make straight lines around it :)

Research: How to make a Contact Print in Bridge and PDF in Photoshop Week 5

How to make a Contact Print in Bridge and PDF in Photoshop

Contact Sheets

Research: How to make a Contact Print

1. Go into bridge and choose the images you want added to your Contact Print.

2. Press the Tools tab at the top of your screen.

3. Go down and press Photoshop.

4. Once Photoshop is pressed go across to Contact Sheet II.

5. Once in the Contact Sheet II decide on the amount of rows and columns you want on your Contact Print.. For example like above Columns 4, Rows 5. 

6.  Then press okay and wait for the images to process.

7. Then save your Contact Print

Research How to Make a PDF on Photoshop

1. Got to file at the top of the screen.

2. Go down to Automative.

3. Then go across to PDF presentation.

4. Press Brows, then locate and select the image you want to use.

5. Drag file names up or down to reorder them.

6. Then go and press either Multi-Page Document or Presentation (For mine I pressed Presentation).

7. After that you can choose if you want the font size or background (For mine I only choose the background colour, which for me was white).

8. After that select file information to display like file name or description (For mine I pressed File Name).

9. Then for presentation you can either choose timing or looping (I pressed Looping) and a transition from the downdrop.

10. Then press save and choose where you'd like to save your PDF and then press save again.

11. In the save Adobe PDF dialog, click Adobe PDF present and choose the smallest size from the downdrop.

12. Then lastly press Save. 

Digital Technology Week 5: Lens Correct and Resizing Camera Raw

Week 5 Digital Technology

 Lens Correct and Resizing Camera RAW

In Class

                                          1. M.I.T Manukau/Editing and Resizing for Print

 Before

After

For this image in editing I used the Lens Correct Panel to straighten the image, and then used the Basics Panel to up the exposure to make the image appear lighter as the original is a little under exposed. I also used the highlights bar to help with the highlighting in the image, and increased the contrast and vibrance of the image to make the image a little brighter and clearer. I then went into the detail panel to help remove noise from this image by taking the luminance up. I then saved and opened the image into Photoshop to ready it for print. I did this by resizing to 50cm across and taking the  resolution to 180dpi, and then saved the image with 'print' in it's file name so I know it's my image ready for print. 

Self Directed Editing

                                          1. Dog/Editing and Resizing

1

2

For this image I went to the HSL/Greyscale and converted the image to black and white and then adjusted the contrast of the colours in the background using the saturation slider, especially the blues and the reds of the blankets behind. I then for the top image opened in Photoshop and resized the image to an A4 and saved the image as a TIFF with 'A4' in the file name. For the second image I opened the history panel and resized the image to it's largest size it could be for print. I did this by unticking resample and changing the resolution to 180dpi, then saved the image as TIFF with 'Large' in the file name. 

Artist Research Week 4: Texture and Negative Space

Week 4 Texture and Negative Space Artist Research

Artist 1
Hiroshi Sugimoto

Hiroshi Sugimoto, Movie Theater, Akron Civic, Ohio, 1980

Hiroshi Sugimoto, Lightening Field, 2009

Hiroshi Sugimoto, Diana, Princess of Whales, 1999

(Book Research From - Small World, Dioramas in Contemporary Art, by Ralph Rugoff)

Hiroshi Sugimoto is a Japanese Photographer, born in 1948. Sugimoto started photography in High School photographing film footage of Audrey Hepburn as it played in a movie theater.  Sugimoto started work with Diorama's in 1976, a series in which he photographed displays in the natural history museum. Hiroshi Sugimoto recalls his first visit to the diorama halls at New York's American Museum of national History. "When I saw them I felt as if I'd taken drugs.... perhaps the whole world around me might be completely dead". His decision to explore these uncanny spaces through photography is appropriate since the camera and museum diorama are, in a sense, equivalent devices. Both are boxlike spaces isolated by glass. Using black and white negatives, Sugimoto worked to capture the illusionism of natural history and wax museum dioramas. In his self described effort to "bring the dead back to life". In 1999 Hiroshi received The International Center of Photography's Infinity Award and won the Hasselblad Foundation International Award in Photography in 2001. In 2002 Sugumoto Mounted his first major solo exhibition in the United Kingdom as part of  the annual Edinburgh International Festival.

The Top Image (Theater). Firstly, I really love how Hiroshi took images in theaters like this, I think it's really creative :). I like the use of negative space being created by the white blank screen, black negative space at the top of the image, and the negative space between the seats. And I love all the texture from the building surrounding the screen. Especially at the top. I think it's a really pretty theater :)

The Middle Image (Lightening Field). I really love this image, I've never seen lightening look like this, I think it's really amazing Hiroshi got images of it. This image has good use of negative space with the black around the lightening and I love the patterning and texture of the lightening. 

The Bottom Image (Princess Diana). This image has black negative space around the wax figure of Princess Diana and texture on the figure as well with the hair and clothing. 

Artist 2

Yousuf Karsh

Yousuf Karsh, Albert Einstein, 1948

Yousuf Karsh, Audrey Hepburn, 1956

Yousuf Karsh, Grace Kelly, 1956

(Book Research From - Karsh: Beyond The Camera, by Davis Travis)

Yousuf Karsh was an Armenian-Canadian Portrait Photographer, Born in 1908.  His portraits have a style unique in the history of photography. Karsh started photography working in his uncles studio, where he was bought his first Kodak Brownie Camera which bought out his innate visual talent. Later one of his landscape images made with a simple camera won a cash prize when one of Yousuf's friends secretly entered it into a photography competition. Yousufs Uncle Nakash also recognized Yousufs talent and made arrangements in 1928 with a portrait photographer in Boston for six months of training. There Karsh began to be conscious of how to see and use reflectors to shape light available to him in the studio. In the Nakash Studio Karsh saw many celebrities and characters transformed into portraits. He himself in the future went on to photograph many of the great and celebrated personalities, including Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Winston Churchill, John F. Kennedy, Ernest Hemingway, Martin Luther King, Queen Elizabeth, Albert Einstein, and many more. In May 1933 Karsh opened his first studio in Ottawa. In 1999, he was named one of the most influential figures of the 20th century.  Among the other famous people listed, Karsh had photographed more than half. He once said "My chief joy is to photograph the great in heart, in mind, and in spirit, whether they be famous or humble".

I love all three of these images. They all show texture with the hair and clothing. Albert Einsteins image also shows texture in the face and beard, and Grace Kelly's in the jewelry as well. And they all show negative space surrounding the subjects in the image's with the back walls. 

Camera Use Week 4: Texture and Negative Space

Week 4 Texture and Negative Space

In Class Exercise 

1. Photograph different Textures in Full Frame

Shutter Speed 1/30   Fstop 7.1   ISO 400

Shutter Speed 1/40   Fstop 7.1   ISO 400

Shutter Speed 1/20   Fstop 7.1   ISO 400

Shutter Speed 1/13   Fstop 7.1   ISO 400

Shutter Speed 1/15   Fstop 7.1   ISO 400

I took these as my Full Frame Texture Images. I took them all hand held. The first was a paper flower on the hallway wall, Second was an outdoor umbrella, third was a couch, fourth was a bean bag, and fifth a rubbish bag. I love the texture of the first image. 

2. Wide Shots with a clearly defined subject incorporating texture 

Shutter Speed 1/40   Fstop 7.1   ISO 400

Shutter Speed 1/60   Fstop 7.1   ISO 400

These are my Wide Shot Texture Images. I have the top image where you can see the texture on the leaf and then you can also slightly see the texture of the table as well, especially where the sun is shining on the table. Then I took the bottom image where you can see the texture around the outside of the flower and flower's and can also see the texture in the background with the tyre and concrete. 

3. Low Angle Images using sky as negative space

Shutter Speed 1/1250   Fstop 7.1   ISO 400

Shutter Speed 1/1000   Fstop 7.1   ISO 200

I got these two low angled images with negative space. The top image is of the school security camera. The second is of "Ashton" I really like this image I think it's a really strong image and I love the sky framing around the edges. I cropped this image in Photoshop. I got both images from a low vantage point. 

4. Still Life

Shutter Speed 1/20   Fstop 7.1   ISO 400

Shutter 1/20   Fstop 7.1   ISO 400

Shutter Speed 1/20   Fstop 7.1   ISO 400

The first image is the first still life image I took with 4 different objects. I then added my camera's lens cap to the pattern and took another image. We then took the red can with the blue lid away and replaced it with a green can and and then replaced the lens cap with a leaf. All objects are placed as evenly as possibly apart. 

5. Photograph with 2 or more people with Negative Space

Shutter Speed 1/1000   Fstop 7.1   ISO 200

I got "Aroha" and "Ashton" to help me with this image. I took this image from a low vantage point and made sure no building was seen in the background. I like how all you can see in this image is the sky as negative space and "Ashton" and "Aroha".

Week 4 Texture and Negative Space

Self Directed Task

1. Photograph different Textures in Full Frame

Shutter Speed 1/2000   Fstop 7.1   ISO 3200

Shutter Speed 1/400   Fstop 7.1   ISO 1600

Shutter Speed 1/400   Fstop 7.1   ISO 1600

Shutter Speed 1/2000   Fstop 7.1   ISO 1600

These are my full frame texture images. The first is a pot plant holder, The second is a blanket, The third is my curtains, and the 4th is my horse "Dakota's" mane. 

2. Shots with a clearly defined subject incorporating texture 

Shutter Speed 1/500   Fstop 7.1   ISO 200

Shutter Speed 1/200   Fstop 7.1   ISO 400

I took these of my dog "Bella" and my cat "Flicka" I tried to get the texture so you could see it on them and the background. I know the picture of "Bella" isn't a wide image she wouldn't stay still, I was trying to get just her and the couch which was hard. For the "Bella"image I tried to get the texture of the blankets in the background and the texture of her fur. For the Flicka image I wanted the texture of the blanket in the background and then texture of her fur. I cropped both images in Photoshop. 

3. Low Angle Images using sky as negative space

Shutter Speed 1/4000   Fstop 7.1   ISO 800

Shutter Speed 1/4000   Fstop 7.1   ISO 800

These are my two Low Angled images with the sky as negative space. These are my two ponies "Sindy" and "Dakota". I'd never taken a low angled image of any of our horses before so when I was thinking of a subject for this task the horses were one of the first that came to mind. I really love how the sky frames around them and I also like how the clouds are in it as well BUT there's still negative space even within the clouds. The image of "Dakota" I cropped in Photoshop Raw.

4. Photograph with 2 or more people with Negative Space

Shutter Speed 1/2000   Fstop 7.1   ISO 3200

I didn't have two people to take images of so I asked mum if she could sit with the cat as my second subject. 

I originally wanted mum to get "Flickas" attention so they'd both be looking at each other with space between them BUT that didn't really work out. I like how the image turned out though. I like the square shapes all through the Image too.

4. Still Life

Shutter Speed 1/50   Fstop 7.1   ISO 3200

Shutter Speed 1/50   Fstop 7.1   ISO 3200

For these still life images I tried to make it look like there's a whole Tomato and I wanted the knife to kinda symbolise that the Tomato is gonna be cut, and kinda half the image at the same time. I then added some left over cut Tomato that my mum had cut to the other side of the plate to symbolise the Tomato being cut. I'm not to sure if I achieved this fully, but I felt it was a creative way of doing the still life images. 

Digital Technology Week 4: Adjustement Brush, Sharpening, Noise Reduction Camera Raw

Week 4 Digital Technology 

Camera RAW

Adjustment Brush, Sharpening and Noise Reduction Exercise

In Class

                                                       1. River/Adjustment Brush

Before

After

For this image I used the Adjustment Brush on pretty much everything in the image. I took the clarity down for the sky, by dragging the adjustment brush over the entire sky area of the image. I upped the saturation in the rocks to make them a bit brighter, using the same technique. I took the exposure for the river up to make it lighter, and took the exposure for the grass up to make it lighter as well. I used the mask button over the image in red to show where I was adjusting as  I couldn't see where I was adjusting because the adjustment brush tool wasn't showing on screen.

                                                       2. Rabbit/Adjustment Brush

Before

After

This image I found really hard to edit using the Adjustment Brush, because the adjustment brush wasn't showing on my computer. I couldn't see where the brush was editing and continually edited in the wrong area's, so I used the Mask Tool to show me where I was editing in red, much like the top image. For this image in the background I took the saturation all the way down and dragged my adjustment brush all over the background and carefully around the rabbit to make the background black and white. I also took the contrast up a bit for the background as well to give more detail.

For the rabbit I upped the saturation using the adjustment brush to make the fur a little brighter against the black and white in the background. 

                                                       3. Rocks/Adjustment Brush

Before

After

For this image I took the exposure for the sky down using the adjustment brush to make the sky lighter, and took the exposure and the highlights up for the cloud over the rock to make it stand out more and appear whiter. I also took the exposure and contrast up over the whole image using the basic's panel to help lighten the Image.

                                          4. Model/Sharpening and Noise Reduction

Before and After

For this image I went into the Detail Panel. When going to sharpen this image I pressed down on the option key and moved the masking bar to make the image black and white to show me where I was sharpening, because I didn't want detail on the skin sharpened I went across till there was only white along the outsides of the subjects and made the edges sharper. Using the same technique I took the detail of the image down, and took the amount bar up to 76, and took the Luminance Bar all the way to 32 to help reduce the noise in the image, I also upped the colour. As you can see from the before and after image above there is quite a big difference especially with sharpening and noise reduction. 

                                          5. Ocean/Sharpening and Noise Reduction

Before and After

For this image I used the same techniques. I took the masking up to 52 by pressing down on the option key on the keyboard to show me what parts of the image I'm sharpening. I then took the detail up to 49 and took the radius up to 1.6 for a bit more detail and took the luminance up to 34 to reduce the nose in the whole image. I also upped the colour. You can see the after image is a whole heap more clean that the before image. 

  

Adjustment Brush, Sharpening and Noise Reduction

Self Directed Editing

                                          1. Adjustment Brush 

Before and After

When editing this image I used the masking tool to see where I was editing. For this image I took the adjustment brush over the sky and upped the exposure to make the sky darker so you can see more detail, as you can see from both images the sky is quite a bit more bluer than the original image. I also took the adjustment brush over "Carylines" grey shirt but this time by taking the clarity down to help make her shirt a little lighter than the original image. I also took the adjustment brush over "Carylines" yellow lanyard to try and make it a bit brighter. I also took the adjustment brush over "Carylines" hair to try and lighten it by upping the exposure.

                                          2. Barn/Adjustment Brush/Resizing

Before and After

After

When adjusting this image with the Adjustment Brush I used the masking tool so I could see where I was adjusting as it still wasn't showing on screen. I used the adjustment brush only over the sky, and took the exposure, contrast, and highlights all the way down to get more detail in the sky and make the sky darker in-between the clouds. 

The bottom image is an image I resized in Photoshop, I made the shortest edge 20cm and took the resolution to 72dpi, and changed the format back to JPEG after I had done another task to change it to TIFF.

3. Sharpen and Noise Reduction

Before and After

This image had a high ISO of 6400. I edited this image with the sharpening panel in Camera RAW. I took the amount up to 12 to help smoothen the image, and took the mask up to 78 by pressing down on the option bar to make the screen black and white so I knew where I was sharpening. This time I decided I wanted the skin a little sharper to so I left some white on the face as well. I also took the luminance up to 58 to reduce the noise of the image. 

                                          4. Bridge/Adjustment Brush

Before and After

I made very small adjustments to this image BUT I didn't want too much done to it anyway. I made the fence on the right hand side darker as I wanted it to be darker with the rest of the fence so your eye dosn't get so attracted to it when looking at the image. I did this by taking the Exposure, Highlights, and Shadow bars all the way down and going over that part of the image with the Adjustment Brush. 

I also made the grass and "Aroha" in front brighter by upping the vibrance and made the sky darker which I think looks more dramatic by taking the exposure bar down and going over the whole sky with the Adjustment Brush.

5. Otara/Sport Removal/Adjustment Brush

Before

After

For this image I took the saturation down in the background using the Adjustment Brush. I always really liked this image BUT I didn't like how you couldn't really tell what the subject was cause her clothing is a very similar shade to the background so. I feel more like you can tell in the edited version. I also took the sharpness down in the background so it's not quite a sharp, again so "Rabia" would be more noticeable. I also used the Spot Removal tool on Rabia's scarf to get rid of the fluff stuck to her scarf.